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By Marcy Covault
Part 3 of 5 — Handfeeding and Raising Youngsters
If a person can successfully co-parent chicks by leaving them in the nest
and handling them, it may be possible to have tame chicks without pulling to handfeed.  BUT,
that just isn't an option in most cases, because the parents won't tolerate it and/or the
person cannot be there at the right times to consistently handle the youngsters. Co-parenting
IS more time consuming, minute for minute, than handfeeding, in my experience, so the argument
that the breeder is lazy and trying to avoid spending time handfeeding is just not true the
majority of the time.
Depending on the species and the quality of parenting, there are different
opinions on when to take the chicks for handfeeding. I try to leave chicks in with the parents
as long as practicable, realizing that if I take them when they are a bit older, I must consider
the brooder environment more carefully and spend extra time with them in the first few day's
adjustment period. It is usually more stressful for a 3+ week old chick to adjust, for example,
than for a 10-day or even 2 week old chick to adjust. Older chicks (whose eyes are open and trying
to focus) are more aware of their environments and more used to the dark coziness of the nestbox
and ministering of the parents, so it may take them longer to accept a new environment and
caregiver.
Sexing and Banding
Sexing – As a rule, I DNA-sex even pet birds (unless they are sexually
dimorphic or color sex-linked), as I believe it is advantageous for new owners to know
the sex of their birds. For example, if they have a female, they can ensure at maturity
that she gets a little extra calcium so that there is no egg-binding problem. If they
decide to add another pet bird, they can opt to get one of the same sex if they are not
interested in breeding.
Banding – I band all chicks with numbered and appropriately sized
closed bands. I consider banding a good avicultural practice in order to maintain the history of
parentage of a bird and to be able to identify a bird if lost or stolen. There is a differing
opinion by some in regards to dangers of bands on pet birds, but I do not share that. If the bird
is banded with the appropriate size, there are rarely problems.
Typically, a baby will be banded BEFORE pulling for handfeeding (e.g., 10
days to 2 weeks for sun conures). With most species, if you wait until after pulling, you have
to go with a larger band that either may not stay on the baby or may be so roomy that it could
hang on twigs or toys in the cage.
Specialty organizations sell closed bands with the initials of the organization on them.
In the U.S., L&M Leg Bands also makes and sells custom imprinted bands appropriate for the species size.
Brooder Environment
I do not use clear, lighted brooders such as the aquarium types, because I believe those
stress chicks more than a dark brooder. I try to simulate the nestbox environment in order to reduce
stress on the chicks by starting out with a fairly dark brooder.  When I feed, the lights are dim, and
the light over the feeding area is a low-wattage amber, which seems to startle chicks less than brighter
lights. This seems to be particularly true for more timid species, such as Indian ringnecks. Unless you
pull ringneck chicks to handfeed very young (around 2 weeks old), they are more likely to react negatively
to being placed into a brightly lit environment from the nest, and I think they stress unduly.
Types of brooders – I have commercial brooders, but I rarely use them.
They are larger and bulkier than "home-made" brooders, and larger is not necessary for the small
parrot species I raise. If temperature is critical, e.g., with younger chicks and singles that don't
have clutch mates to help keep them warm, then the commercial brooder is advisable, as it is much
more precise in heat and has an air circulating fan and filter. Humidity can also be better regulated.
It is still prudent to have a backup thermometer and hygrometer, and to calibrate the commercial brooders
if temperature is critical. Even the digitally equipped brooders can get "off" in temperature, and that
can mean the difference in thriving, or even life or death to a very young chick. The younger the chicks,
the more temperature and humidity variations affect them, from chilling to literally "cooking" if the
temperatures aren't monitored properly. An unfeathered chick will require a higher temperature (in the
upper 90's), for example, than a partly feathered chick (in the low 90's or upper 80's), and having other
chicks in the brooder to huddle with and hold temperature also affects if variations in temperature will
be tolerated. Instructions come with commercial brooders, and there are books that are excellent references,
such as Hand Feeding and Nursery Management (Voren and Jordan).
With home made brooders, which I often use
with older chicks (~3+ weeks, or 2 to 3 weeks if a clutch can "huddle" together), it is wise to have a
thermometer with hygrometer (humidity measurement) to be sure temperature and humidity stay within a few
degrees of tolerance. You can also visually see if chicks are too hot (they will be spread out and lethargic)
or too cold (they will be huddled together and agitated). Also, with experience, one can note the skin tone
(plump, healthy pink for proper humidity and temperature vs. pale or very red for improper temperature or humidity).
In addition, proper digestion between feedings is another indicator of temperature adequacy.
Intermediate plexibrooder – The plexibrooder is an intermediate brooder that I use as a step
between the dark brooder and the weaning cage. It sits in a secluded area, where the chicks can venture out
and see the world, but not be frightened by too-bright lights or other birds moving around rapidly. When the
chicks are mostly feathered, and from the time the chicks are in a more lighted brooder (e.g., the plexibrooder),
they have a sleepbox in the back of the brooder against the heating pad, which warms the back of the sleepbox.
The chicks will stay warmer if they need that, and venture out if they don't. Chicks usually stay in the
plexibrooder for a week or so. When they are climbing all over it and looking for a way out, they graduate
to the weaning cage. I do NOT put them in the weaning cage until I feel they have developed enough self-confidence
not to be intimidated by a larger worldview – usually timed closely to when they would venture out if parent-raised.
Nursery location – Although it is best practice to have your "nursery" away
from mature birds, it is also impractical in many home aviary settings. However, we need to be aware of the
possibility of a mature "carrier" bird passing on something that doesn't affect them, but which could
be deadly to a youngster with an undeveloped immune system, and to understand that separate areas insomuch as
possible is good avian husbandry. The "Model Aviculture Program," http://www.modelaviculture.org, provides
guidelines on nursery location and biosecurity.
Product names mentioned are examples of well-known brands, but are not
necessarily endorsements solely of those brands, as there are many good avian-specific
brands on the market today, unlike even as recently as a decade ago.
Handfeeding
There are several good books, as well as detailed articles on handfeeding basics,
including the Voren and Jordan book mentioned previously, so I won't go into extreme detail here, except
to say that handfeeders should educate themselves BEFORE their first clutch in order to avoid problems
that are covered thoroughly in the excellent materials available.  They should also have a mentor or other
experienced handfeeder to call upon if they encounter a situation they cannot handle.
Following are my preferences and techniques. I use Zupreem Embrace Plus handfeeding formula,
because it gives me good weight gain, and I think the active smaller birds need the extra calories. When I have
used "regular" handfeeding formula, I have also had to add a little unsalted, unsugared peanut
butter to raise the fat content in order to get desired weight gains.
Feeding equipment and method – I use small to medium insulated soup containers for the
formula, because those hold heat better than a regular cup. I start with hot tap water, add formula, and
stir until desired thickness. Formula bags give formula to water ratios, and while that's a good guide,
I've found that particularly older chicks may want a little thinner formula. Insofar as temperature,
using a thermometer is safest, particularly so that the formula isn't too hot (as it can burn a baby's crop).
Again, sometimes the older chicks want it almost at the top range of heat and thin, or they will refuse
to eat enough (even if they still need it). During a feeding, if the formula cools down too much, I will
reheat for a few seconds (usually 4 to 5 max) in the microwave, but I will then stir well and check the
temperature to be sure it's not too hot and doesn't have "hot spots."
I also use a separate container with warm water to dip the syringe after filling and to hold a syringe of water
used to rinse the youngsters off. The rinsing syringe works better with pin-feathering chicks than a wet cloth,
which tends to smear the formula into the chest area.
I utilize a plastic pan with a plastic grid, wash cloth, and paper towel on the bottom,
as a feeding "tub." This tub sides keep chicks from wandering; the plastic grid keeps them off the bottom
which gets wet with rinsing; the wash cloth covers the grid and keeps the paper towel from bunching or
slipping as much as it would otherwise; and the paper towel can be changed with each baby or feeding, as
needed.
For lighting, I have an overhead low-wattage orange-bulb light, so that they are not
startled by brightness, but still have some warmth, and I can see to feed!
Syringe or spoon – My handfeeding is usually done with a 5 cc "O-ring" syringe. I also use a "bent" spoon
to start a chick that has been pulled for handfeeding a bit late, because they take to that easier
than a syringe. I transition them to a syringe, as that is less messy and somewhat faster than a spoon.
I will sometimes use the spoon to "top off" a fledgling youngster that has decided it doesn't want to eat
from a syringe and yet still needs a certain amount of formula. Others use pipettes for the smaller species,
but I've found a syringe works best for me.
Overcoming Fledgling Food Rejection – When the chicks have started flying,
they will often be more interested in flying rather than eating formula. They will still need the formula,
because they are not eating near enough food on their own to maintain their weight. I will let them fly first
and work up an appetite. If they are mainly resisting being in the feeding tub, I will feed them on top
of the cages (where they land after flying around). It's a less contained mess, and they will get it on
their faces and chests, but they will often eat several cc's that way, and I can catch them up after they've
exercised and clean them up.
Weaning Cages and Environment – The weaning cage is often a smaller cage
than the flight cage that they will ultimately occupy, although it is big enough for them to move around
in and explore, climb, flap, and even take very short flights across, up, and down. For a clutch of green
cheek conures, for example, their "beginning" weaning cage will be about 18" square and 24"
tall. I start with their familiar sleepbox, set in the bottom of the cage (with newspaper and white paper towels on the
bottom grate until they are comfortable climbing around). I move the sleepbox up once they are regularly
hanging out higher in the cage. Once the youngsters are climbing all over the beginning weaning cage
(usually a week or less), I move them to a larger flight cage that's about 32"W x 22"D x 36"H. They can fly
across that size and learn to maneuver, so that when they are out flying in a room, they seem to control
themselves better.
I have hanging toys in the cages and different diameter perches at various levels, but
allowing wing flap room. Until they are eating weaning food well, I don't put foot toys in the bottom, as
I want them to play with the food pieces rather than plastic pieces. Once they are in the larger flight
cages, however, they also have small foot toys in the bottom, as well as hanging toys and swings.
Weaning food, food, everywhere! That's my philosophy with young birds. I
have bowls in the floor of the cage
and in suspended bowls near favorite "hang-out" perches (as I can determine those). Soft food gets changed
or replenished at least twice a day, and the "dry" food (small pellets and seed mixes) gets changed and
replenished as necessary. I start with crumbled bird bread and a combination of hulled millet, quinoa,
and steel-cut oat groats. I also sprinkle over the soft foods (sprouts, chopped veggies, fruit) an egg
food like Higgins Proteen 25 or Quicko, and I include small pieces of leafy veggies and fruit for food
and play.
Formula Treats – All of my handfed birds, including breeders, know what
a "formula treat" is – they are my "moochers." I can go around with a syringe of formula and
give each a beakful, and it's greedily gobbled. I have found that this can reinforce the "tie" to me
as a provider with them (keying back to handfeeding days), so that they stay "tamer," even without
intense hands-on. This also makes it easier to give medications if I need to do that.
Handling – I cuddle and kiss on the chicks from the time I start handfeeding
them. While they're in the nestbox, I may reach in (if parents are out) and stroke them, talking softly, but
I don't think that is as critical as how they are handled once taken for handfeeding.  I am always careful
to cradle them and not grab in a hurry, and to reassure them with a soft voice and whistles, and depending
on the species, other sounds to which they may respond positively. For example, crimson bellied conures make
tiny "clicking" sounds; green cheeks, roseifrons, white eared, and ringnecks have distinctive
whistles; and sun conures (which do not whistle) make what I call "sun-duck" sounds (almost like a
little quack).
Most species will go through an independence stage during their first year, varying in
intensity, whether it's around weaning time, or post-weaning. That is NATURAL, and how one deals with it
can determine the successful evolving of that behavior into a satisfactory companion animal or not. I
sometimes keep certain chicks well beyond weaning when I feel they need to "work through" a stage,
because I am concerned that particularly a novice owner may not be able to cope with it. The idea that one
must get a just-weaned chick as the best companion is just not true, in my experience. Think about it.
If an experienced aviculturist has worked through an antisocial stage with a chick, what a benefit to
the new owner! Birds are long-lived and adaptable, and there is rarely a chick "too old" to adapt to a
new home. What's more important is matching species and personality with the intended new owner and home.
A Few Q&A's about FCA Avicultural Practices
When do you know a chick is weaned, and when can it go to a new home? When chicks are
eating a variety of foods well, don't beg for formula, and hold their weight, they are weaned. They will
be playing, active in their cages, and flying a good bit. I usually like a chick to be weaned for two
weeks before they go to a new home, particularly if they are going out of town or out of state, because
I am not local to those buyers for hands-on assistance if the chick "regresses" to handfeeding.  They
are very unlikely to regress if they have been properly weaned-and that sometimes means keeping them
longer.
Birds are also sensitive to the "emotional charge" in a household, and some of
their actions (including excessive screaming, biting, or feather picking) can have roots in
environmental stresses of people in the household. The new owner has a responsibility to research
the physical and psychological needs of their species, so that they can handle personality
challenges successfully. This makes the continuing, and hopefully, lifelong relationship with the
companion parrot much more satisfying for both human and bird.
Do you vaccinate your chicks (polyoma, specifically)? Do you test them for disease? I do not
vaccinate my chicks. There are some species that are particularly susceptible to polyoma even
as adults (e.g., caiques), and if I raised those, I would consider vaccination, particularly
if the youngster were going to a pet store for resale. If a youngster will be going "out into
the world" among other birds, vaccination should be discussed with your avian veterinarian.
The species I raise are not as susceptible to certain diseases for which there are vaccines,
although all young chicks are vulnerable (if exposed) to diseases such as polyoma. Usually,
if there is polyoma in an aviary, there are sudden deaths among chicks, and there are physical
signs that accompany chicks that are getting ill. I do not test chicks for specific diseases,
unless I have an unexplainable illness or death , and I want to ensure that I do not have an
outbreak of one of the "dreaded" illnesses (most of which can be treated successfully if caught
early enough), e.g., polyoma, psittacosis, beak and feather, Giardia, or megabacteria.
How much do you handle chicks when handfeeding? I will spend a few moments with each chick,
cradling and talking to it before and after feeding, and as they get older, I spend more time
with them. Some species also require more than others. For example, sun conures are naturally
very tame and cuddly. Many Pyrrhuras are that way too, but they seem to be a bit more independent
and vary more in cuddliness. Parrotlets need early and consistent "hands-on" time, as do ringnecks.
If they don't get it, most will be flighty and touch-me-nots.
Do you prefer to keep pet birds singly in cages or in pairs (or more)? Birds are
flock creatures, and I usually keep mine at least two to a cage.  They may be same sex or opposite sex,
although for long term without breeding in mind, same sex is preferable. Many birds do just fine as
single birds in a household, but I personally feel that most welcome another warm feathered body in
the same room. They do not necessarily need to share a cage, but having play time out together is
usually enjoyed, and they may wind up in the same cage anyway! If they are similar in size and not
the opposite sex, that's usually okay.
For the pet owner, it is important to watch the dynamics among the family members,
as birds sometimes attach to one person to the exclusion of others or other birds, and behavioral
issues dealing with territoriality and aggression can surface. Especially with conures, they are
really touchy-feely birds, as a rule, and if someone works all day, having a buddy to keep their
bird company would probably be welcome-whether it's eating, playing, mutually preening, sleeping,
etc. Will they prefer their bird buddy to their human? Possibly, but usually it just changes the
relationship a bit, so that they are not so overly dependent on the human. In my view, that is a
good thing!
Do you flight fledge and/or clip your youngsters' flight feathers? All of my
chicks are flight-fledged and will not have their flight feathers trimmed until shortly before
they go to a new pet home. The reason for the trimming is so that they have a chance to get
used to the new home and new owners and to prevent startling and flying into a door or window if
startled (because it's a new environment), and so that the new owner will have some degree of
control.
I trim only enough feathers to prevent upward and fast flight, as I feel it's important
that birds retain some flying ability. Whether a bird stays trimmed depends on whether
it's safe in the new home, i.e., whether other animals or children might make a trimmed
(or flighted) bird a problem.
Wing feather clipping
I do a progressive wing feather clip on babies. Once they are totally comfortable with maneuvering, landing,
etc., and have shown enough independence so that I have to work to get them to go back in their cages, I begin
clipping the outer flight feathers. I start with two on each side; then over time, I clip one per side until
they can fly, but not soar-level, short hops up, and long glides down-usually no more than 5 or 6 feathers on
each side. As your bird matures and gets set in your routine (and hopefully, cooperative about going back in
its cage), you can decide how much you want it clipped. I feel it's better that birds go to new homes with some
wing clipping, so that if they get startled, they can't fly into windows or mirrors (or out doors). It does
make them more dependent on you-but if you want a close relationship, it's up to you to develop the trust that
goes with it. In reality, dependence can be forced upon them, but trust cannot.
Advantages to some flight are
- They can go from one person to another easily and enjoy more mobility.
- You can more easily potty-train them as they can leave and go elsewhere and then come back to you; and
- When they are ready to go to bed, they will often fly right back to their cages (or to you, depending
on your bedtime habits).
Disadvantages are
- The danger of someone leaving an outer door open or walking outside with the bird on the shoulder
and them flying away, getting disoriented with the big blue outdoors, or being caught in midair by a
predator, such as a hawk;
- Panicking and flying into a window, mirror, or sliding-glass door; and
- Getting into something in the house they shouldn't (e.g., a hot stove or electrical cord).
In other words, if your birds are flighted, you have to be doubly careful!
Part 1 — Parrotkeeping
Part 2 — Breeding Birds
Part 3 — Handfeeding and Raising Youngsters
Part 4 — Selling Birds
Part 5 — Legislation and References
(Copyright) Marcy Covault: No part of
this article or its photos may be used for any reproduction without the
written permission of the author.
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